Two articles from the Melbourne Age newspaper ...

'Gathering Steam' … Patricia Maunder goes on and off the rails in a region of wine, riding trails and military history.

This article ran in the Melbourne Age, Sydney Morning Herald and Brisbane Times on Saturday 17th September, 2011. It depicts, very well, our beautiful Goulburn River Valley's amazing history, heritage, natural attractions and wineries - and suggests an overnight stay at the homey Brecon House B&B, one of Murchison's oldest buildings with vintage armchairs beside the wood heater.

Heading north on the Hume Freeway, I'm out of Melbourne and into the countryside within an hour. The sun's shining, the grass is green and the mountains, albeit modest, look majestic. The Goulburn Valley is ticking lots of boxes. Surrounded by the Murray River, Yarra Valley, Goldfields and High Country, it probably doesn't get the love it deserves from tourists - especially at this time of lush paddocks and bushland, blossoming orchards, budding vines and rushing rivers. Heritage is among the Goulburn Valley's underappreciated charms, associated as it is with some of Victoria's earliest European settlement (Kilmore is the state's oldest inland town), the gold rush and the Kelly gang. First stop is Hume and Hovell cricket ground in Strath Creek (humeandhovell.com.au), named for the explorers who passed through in the 1820s. The white picket fence, turf wickets and English garden outside the pavilion suggest they may have set the place up but it was established less than 20 years ago. Inspired by tradition and packed with cricket memorabilia, it's an idyllic spot for a light lunch, even when the mountain backdrop's beauty isn't enhanced by the sound of bat on ball. The nearby Kerrisdale Mountain Railway (kerrisdalemtnrailway.com.au) is no Puffing Billy, as the modest mid-20th-century diesel train takes a relatively short route. But there's a chance of seeing kangaroos bounce across the track and the hilltop view is impressive. This attraction isn't only about trains but also about engineering heritage, especially in the superbly maintained steam museum. The 19th-century Kerrisdale station ticket office has been relocated here and transformed into a secluded bed and breakfast. Seymour Railway Heritage Centre (srhc.org.au) has a more serious trainspotting experience. Tours take in highlights among dozens of engines and carriages, many in the process of being repaired and refurbished. The most impressive include an opulent Edwardian state carriage, yet even those made for the masses offer intriguing insights into rail travel's past. Cheviot Tunnel (about eight kilometres west of Yea, on Cheviot Road) is also worth a look - especially as part of a walk, cycle or horse ride along the Goulburn River High Country Rail Trail from Tallarook to Mansfield. Lined with thousands of handmade bricks, this 1880s tunnel is in perfect condition, making it a triumphant arch for the humble bushwalker. While other regions have become more popular with wine lovers, this is Victorian viticulture's birthplace, as Tahbilk Winery's venerable buildings and original 1860 vines bear testament (tahbilk.com.au). Explore the brick, stone and timber structures full of antique equipment, then sample the wares among hundreds of awards, old and new. Nearby Mitchelton winery (mitchelton.com.au) hasn't as much history but its late-1960s buildings represent Australia's first forays into wine tourism. While tasting the cellar-door offerings, admiring the art gallery, touring the state-of-the art facilities, or enjoying lunch in the restaurant, it's difficult to imagine that such wine tourism staples were non-existent in Australia 40 years ago. The vineyard's riverside restaurant is among the region's best - or keep it simple on the lawns outside with local cheeses and a bottle of shiraz. Another sure bet for sophisticated palates is The Tea Rooms at Yarck (6585 Maroondah Highway), a whitewashed old timber structure serving up bellissima rustic Italian cuisine made from fresh seasonal produce. The valley's many heritage pubs are also great places to tuck in and some offer accommodation, too.

Other historical places to lay your head include Seymour's Bank on the Goulburn (bankonthegoulburn.com.au), a vast 1870 bank refurbished with contemporary comforts and decor, or the more homey Brecon House B&B, one of Murchison's oldest buildings with vintage armchairs beside the wood heater.

For a break from human history, get an invigorating dose of natural history at King Parrot Valley Retreat at Strath Creek (kingparrotvalleychalets.com.au). I fall asleep to croaking frogs and wake to birdsong in a big log "chalet" nestled among informal native gardens. Military history is another feature of the valley, where Australians have trained for battle as far back as the Boer War. In addition to Puckapunyal's well-established Army Tank Museum (armytankmuseum.com.au) and Australian Light Horse Memorial Park (Goulburn Valley Highway, Seymour) there is the Vietnam Veterans' Commemorative Walk (High Street, Seymour). The first stage of this informative, peaceful memorial opened in March and centres on a replica of Luscombe Bowl, where Australasian troops were entertained in Vietnam. Tatura Irrigation and Wartime Camps Museum (taturamuseum.org.au) houses a collection of items associated with the region's seven World War II internment camps, where thousands of prisoners of war were housed. Using the limited materials at hand, inmates made practical tools and home comforts including bicycle-spoke knitting needles and lovingly crafted toys. Another museum worth seeing is run by the the Historical Society of Mooroopna (hsm.org.au). The extensive section dedicated to medicine is well presented and features items from the former Mooroopna hospital, including early blood-transfusion equipment. Shepparton Heritage Centre Museum (heritageshepparton.com.au) offers an interesting snapshot of local history, from the demolished post office tower's clock to a 1929 fire engine. Patricia Maunder was a guest of Goulburn River Valley Tourism.

For information on this fabulous district visit www.goulburnrivervalley.com.au

And an older article with a different focus ...

'Go With the Goulburn Flow' … from Seymour to Murchison

CAMERON McGAVIN, writing in the Melbourne Age newspaper on Thursday 28th July, 2005, finds that the Goulburn River hosts the spice of life and suggests you stay at …

Brecon House, 4 stars (ph. 0417 560 843), which offers luxurious B&B accommodation in a lovely restored colonial-era building in Murchison.

Big rivers have long been mythologised elsewhere, yet in Australia, such life-giving arteries are strangely benign, if not culturally invisible. So it is with Victoria's grandest waterway, the Goulburn, which might not have inspired much artistic endeavour but makes a great getaway for those seeking watery isolation close to Melbourne. The Goulburn runs almost 600 kilometres from the Victorian alps to the Murray near Echuca and brings life to our state's dry north-central region.

For those with limited time, the stretch between Seymour and Murchison makes perfect sense. Apart from being so close to Melbourne, it offers a variety of sightseeing and activities within a short distance. To get there, travel for about an hour up the Hume (M31) and continue past the Seymour interchange. Soon after, look out for the exit to Shepparton to get onto the Goulburn Valley Hwy (M39). The first stretch of the M39 is wide, smooth and offers minimal relief from the stark landscape that's accompanied you since the Hume crossed the Great Dividing Range. After about 15 kilometres, however, take a left (signposted to Mitchellstown) for a more visually stimulating run along the river. This takes you through one of Australia's oldest winemaking regions (vines were planted here in the 1850s), with respected wineries such as Tahbilk and Mitchelton easily accessed by following the signs. After crossing the Goulburn at Mitchellstown, the site of a lovely heritage-listed wooden bridge, follow the road as it twists north towards Nagambie. There is a short unsealed stretch to navigate, with boat hire, accommodation and another winery, before you arrive at a T-intersection with the Heathcote-Nagambie Road (C344). Turn right for the short run back over the river and into Nagambie, then a left onto the M39 to access the town centre. Nagambie is a picturesque town on the shores of the extensive lake system formed when nearby Goulburn Weir was built in 1887. There's a lot to do here, from canoeing, waterskiing and sailing to skydiving, gliding, hot-air ballooning or just exploring the lake's tree-lined shores. There's no shortage of good food, wineries or places to stay, making it the logical base for a more extensive exploration of the region. Exiting Nagambie to the north on the M39, look out for a left a few kilometres out, signposted for Kirwan's Bridge. The road sweeps lazily across a rise between Lake Nagambie and Goulburn Weir, before dropping down to water level for another Goulburn crossing. It's no regular crossing, either; Kirwan's Bridge, built in 1890 and another heritage-listed wonder, spans 313 metres and is thrilling to drive, even at the posted 20 kilometres an hour. Soon after Kirwan's Bridge, there's a T-intersection with the Goulburn Weir-Murchison Road. Nagambie's reputed skydiving centre can be accessed by turning left but to continue the route, turn right. This sweeping road runs alongside the Goulburn, crossing the many irrigation channels that serve the region before tracing its way to Murchison.

Murchison, an Aboriginal Protectorate in the 1840s and the site of a prison camp in WWII, attracts visitors for its riverside location and laid-back rural feel. With its wonderful bakery, shops, winery, cheese maker and accommodation, it's a great place to kick back in peace and quiet without sacrificing your indulgent side.

Stop for a bite: Murchison's bakery, with its riverside location and upstairs/outdoors eating area, gives the legendary Beechworth Bakehouse a good run for its money. Or something more grand: Mitchelton Wine Bar Restaurant (5794 2388) at Mitchelton Winery near Nagambie offers classy fare, or grab a hamper, a bottle of wine and picnic near the river. Try visiting: Tahbilk Winery (5794 2555) is Victoria's oldest family owned winery, and is worth visiting for its serene riverside location and historic buildings. It's also the site for the departure of Goulburn River Cruises' (5794 2877) Buyunga Cruise, which cruises the Goulburn from Tahbilk to Mitchelton Winery for a gourmet lunch and back again in about four hours. Shorter cruises are available.

Stay at: Brecon House, 4 stars (ph. 0417 560 843), offers luxurious B&B accommodation in a lovely restored colonial-era building in Murchison.

Trip Distance: 58 km Distances from Melbourne: Seymour 101 km, Murchison 150 km Fuel available at: Nagambie and Murchison