Seymour to Murchison - "The Age" Thursday July 28 2005

The Goulbourn River hosts the spice of life, CAMERON McGAVIN finds.

Go with the Goulburn flow

Big rivers have long been mythologised elsewhere, yet in Australia, such life-giving arteries are strangely benign, if not culturally invisible. So it is with Victoria's grandest waterway, the Goulburn, which might not have inspired much artistic endeavour but makes a great getaway for those seeking watery isolation close to Melbourne.

The Goulburn runs almost 600 kilometres from the Victorian alps to the Murray near Echuca and brings life to our state's dry north-central region.

For those with limited time, the stretch between Seymour and Murchison makes perfect sense. Apart from being so close to Melbourne, it offers a variety of sightseeing and activities within a short distance.

To get there, travel for about an hour up the Hume (M31) and continue past the Seymour interchange. Soon after, look out for the exit to Shepparton to get onto the Goulburn Valley Hwy (M39).

The first stretch of the M39 is wide, smooth and offers minimal relief from the stark landscape that's accompanied you since the Hume crossed the Great Dividing Range. After about 15 kilometres, however, take a left (signposted to Mitchellstown) for a more visually stimulating run along the river. This takes you through one of Australia's oldest winemaking regions (vines were planted here in the 1850s), with respected wineries such as Tahbilk and Mitchelton easily accessed by following the signs.

After crossing the Goulburn at Mitchellstown, the site of a lovely heritage-listed wooden bridge, follow the road as it twists north towards Nagambie. There is a short unsealed stretch to navigate, with boat hire, accommodation and another winery, before you arrive at a T-intersection with the Heathcote-Nagambie Road (C344). Turn right for the short run back over the river and into Nagambie, then a left onto the M39 to access the town centre.

Nagambie is a picturesque town on the shores of the extensive lake system formed when nearby Goulburn Weir was built in 1887. There's a lot to do here, from canoeing, waterskiing and sailing to skydiving, gliding, hot-air ballooning or just exploring the lake's tree-lined shores. There's no shortage of good food, wineries or places to stay, making it the logical base for a more extensive exploration of the region.

Exiting Nagambie to the north on the M39, look out for a left a few kilometres out, signposted for Kirwan's Bridge. The road sweeps lazily across a rise between Lake Nagambie and Goulburn Weir, before dropping down to water level for another Goulburn crossing.

It's no regular crossing, either; Kirwan's Bridge, built in 1890 and another heritage-listed wonder, spans 313 metres and is thrilling to drive, even at the posted 20 kilometres an hour.

Soon after Kirwan's Bridge, there's a T-intersection with the Goulburn Weir-Murchison Road. Nagambie's reputed skydiving centre can be accessed by turning left but to continue the route, turn right. This sweeping road runs alongside the Goulburn, crossing the many irrigation channels that serve the region before tracing its way to Murchison.

Murchison, an Aboriginal Protectorate in the 1840s and the site of a prison camp in WWII, attracts visitors for its riverside location and laid-back rural feel. With its wonderful bakery, shops, winery, cheese maker and accommodation, it's a great place to kick back in peace and quiet without sacrificing your indulgent side.

Stop for a bite: Murchison's bakery, with its riverside location and upstairs/outdoors eating area, gives the legendary Beechworth Bakehouse a good run for its money.

Or something more grand: Mitchelton Wine Bar Restaurant (5794 2388) at Mitchelton Winery near Nagambie offers classy fare, or grab a hamper, a bottle of wine and picnic near the river. Scullers Cafe Restaurant (5794 1828), on Nagambie's main street, serves award-winning dishes in a cosy atmosphere with lake views.

Try visiting: Tahbilk Winery (5794 2555) is Victoria's oldest family owned winery, and is worth visiting for its serene riverside location and historic buildings. It's also the site for the departure of Goulburn River Cruises' (5794 2877) Buyunga Cruise, which cruises the Goulburn from Tahbilk to Mitchelton Winery for a gourmet lunch and back again in about four hours. Shorter cruises are available.

Stay at: Brecon House, 4 stars (5826 2003), offers luxurious B&B accommodation in a lovely restored colonial-era building in Murchison.

Lakeside Resort (5794 1488) in Nagambie has 26 modern rooms, many with lake views, a restaurant, bar and facilities galore.

Trip Distance: 58 km

Distances from Melbourne: Seymour 101 km, Murchison 150 km

Fuel available at: Nagambie and Murchison

Reproduced with permission from The Age newspaper and author Cameron McGarvin.